Climbing

A collection of 120 posts

vanlife

Benasque and the Aneto - The heart of the Pyrenees

This chapter of our ongoing exploration of the Iberian peninsula brought us into the central Pyrenees and the very heart of this range, the Benasque valley under the mighty Aneto.

Climbing

Pico de Aneto - A solo climb of the highest mountain in the Pyrenees in a day

During a cloudless and warm day in late September I took on the Aneto. Ascending via the classic, partly glaciated route and descending via what has become the new normal route. A long, arduous but at the same time beautiful and memorable day well spent.

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Espolon Aries / Penyal des Migdia

Quick Info * A wild line on the second highest mountain of Mallorca * Combines a 70 meter high chimney system with different possible starts below and exits above * Poor rock quality, difficult wayfinding and few good gear placements make this a dangerous and committing route * Variant described here: 9 pitches / 260

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Sa Bretxa tower / Sa Calobra

Quick info * A short adventurous climb on a very prominent and striking rock spire right by the famous Sa Calobra road * 2 pitches / 55 meters * 4b / 4c * Trad / only some old fixed gear * Rappel descent General The road down to Sa Calobra is an engineering marvel with its many, many

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Agulla de Frare (Via Normal) / Puig Major

Quick info * Possibly the most iconic alpine climb in the Tramuntana * Route on a free standing spire right next to the highest mountains of the island on solid rock. * Fixed ropes to reach base of the climb * 5 pitches / 170 meters * 4b / 4b / 4c / 5b (4c/A0) / 4c * Trad protection

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Agulla de Boquer (La Directa) / Port de Pollenca

Quick info * Short approach and route with great views on very solid rock. * 3 pitches / 70 meters * 5c / 4c / 4c * Sport bolted / Possible missing bolts on pitch 1 * Descent via rappel only General The Boquer valley is formed by the impressive Cavall de Bernat ridge and the Serra d´Albercutx

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Mallorca Adventure Guide: Logistics

Most of the tours described in this book are clustered in and around the Tramuntana mountains stretching from the most westerly point of the island to the Formentor peninsula. Still you do not need to stay in or even close to the Tramuntana region. The island is small enough that

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: South East Ridge (Sleepy Hollow) / Puig de ses Bruixes

Quick info * Very well protected climb on an unique little peak right in the middle of the island. One of the few multi pitch climbs outside of the Tramuntana. * 5 Pitches / 150 meters * 5c / 4c / 4b / 4b / 4a * Fully sport bolted * Walk off Note: There have been reports of locals

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Mallorca Adventure Guide: Introduction and contents

Mallorca. No doubt one of the top spring, autumn and even winter getaways for outdoor enthusiasts and climbers in particular. With dozens of well bolted sport climbing areas and all levels of difficulty, steady good weather and the beach close by many come here for an easy, low stakes climbing

Climbing

Four multipitches and a sport crag

After getting rained out of the Dolomites we moved our little two van caravan into the Vall de Sarca in search of sunny weather and climbable rock - and the area delivered as promised.

Climbing

Climbing the South Arete of Sas de Stria in the Dolomites

Perched high above the surrounding valleys the Sas de Stria was one of the main battlefields of the alpine theater in World War I. Besides this dark history it is also a stunning mountain to climb and we chose to try our hands on the South Arete that leads all the way to the top.

Climbing

Sun, Rock and Churros: A Costa Blanca climbing trip

After last year's trip in the northern Alps we got the band back together to sample the lines and crags of the Alicante region in Spain and learned first hand why this region is so beloved by climbers! Perfect weather meets perfect rock and the Spanish vibe.

2023

The Via Ferrata of the Sierra de Callosa

The Costa Blanca north of Alicante is covered in endless rocks to climb. The Sierras to the South are much smaller but still some gems that can be found here. Case in point the Serra de Callosa that has several climbing areas and four Via Ferrata.

Climbing

Joy meets Fear on Penyal des Migdia

After a few successful longer climbs Toby and I set our sights on the Espolon Aries. A route that even though it needs to be protected with trad gear looked like a fairly chill outing: We could not have been more wrong!

Climbing

The Cova des Genet: Hidden in plain sight

The steep eastern coast of Mallorca is peppered with caves of all sizes. And the specially rugged area around the popular bay Cala Varques is no different. However, needing a rope to get in and out makes the Cova des Genet secluded even if it's so close to this sometimes crowded destination.

Climbing

Via „La Comon“ on El Paredon: A multipitch jewel on Mallorca

The 300 meter high triangle sea of rock of El Paredon does call out for any climber who puts eyes on it - and I was no different. But it took a bit of research and the right partner to actually give it a proper try.

Climbing

Exploring the beautiful and slightly technical Cova de na Mitjana

After some cool climbing adventures Wolf and I made the most of the turning winter weather on Mallorca by seeking out a lesser known cave in the north east of the island that can only be accessed by a bit of scrambling and a rappel into the main cavern.

Climbing

Climbing an unlikely trad line up the Puig d´Alaró

In our quest to discover and climb multi pitches on Mallorca Wolf and I attempted a very interesting line close to the village of Alaró on the foot of the Tramuntana. With only a rough topo and a single photo of the route Pepe Ramon we knew this would be quite the adventure.

Climbing

Multi pitch climbing at the Wildangerwandl crag in the famous Wilder Kaiser

During our explorations of the alps south of Rosenheim we had to visit the stunning Wilder Kaiser range. However as we did not want to stretch our skills and luck too far we decided on checking out the Wildangerwandl - a true alpine sport crag.

Climbing

Ma. Mountains silence the mind.

The Japanese word „Ma“ can be translated as negative space, the concept of silence or the potential for thoughts or things to develop. This text speaks about how being outside in nature silences the noise and clutter of the mind and makes space for real experiences and a clearer view insight.

Climbing

Don’t Rush! Don’t Dawdle! A week of sport and multi pitch climbing on Mallorca

After having evangelized for the climbing on the island a newish friend from Germany decided to take my word for it and visit for a week right after Christmas. The goal: Climb as much rock and catch as much sun as possible those few days!

MRC

Rock Climbing Mallorca: Quan es fa fosc - Albahida variation (Sa Gubia)

Tl:Dr: A steeper variation of THE multipitch classic in the Sa Gubia crag on Mallorca. The harder pitches are bolted while the rest needs to be protected.

Climbing

The Agulla d´es Frare: Real alpine climbing on Mallorca!

Hiking, wayfinding, scrambling, climbing with the bare minimum of protection, rappelling, a real mountain setting - all that in one go is what needs to be dealt with when attempting this stunning rock tower. Or as my climbing partner Wolf would say: „A tour for the complete Alpinist.“

Climbing

Obeying the Law of Desire

The Sa Gubia crag on Mallorca is well known for its stunning setting and high quality climbing - and the seven pitch La Ley del Deseo is among the jewels here. Sustained climbing up to grade 6a on high quality rock with tons of exposure - my kind of jam!

MRC

Rock Climbing Mallorca: Pixarells - Tramuntana Bouldering

Tl:Dr: The bouldering spot on Mallorca! Tons of mostly hard problems on very interesting rock in a very unique and beautiful setting.