Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Via Directa des Pilar on El Paredon / Puig Major

Quick info * A straight and proud line on the right and side of the Paredon wall that goes right to the top. * Never really easy and with some distinct crux pitches. Less sustained than La Comon but harder than Socuellamos. * Long mildly technical scrambling descend or steeper scramble and walk

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Via Socuellamos on El Paredon / Puig Major

Quick info * The classic line on the crown jewel of a wall that is El Paredon (Puig Major). * A mix of harder, steeper pitches in the beginning with a traverse to an easy finish as the second part of the route. * Long mildly technical scrambling descend or steeper scramble and

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Scramble: Galatzo East Face

Quick info * An alternative and more adventurous way to reach the top of Puig de Galatzo, one of the premier hiking peaks of the island * Light scrambling with some exposure * Can be combined with the climb of the Agulla de Forcada (el Bispe) General The popular hiking peak of the

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Agulla Forcada „El Bispe“ / Galatzo

Quick info * Very aesthetic rock tower in a beautiful mountainous setting. * 3 pitches / 105 meters * 5a / 5c / 4b * Trad protection / only some fixed gear at belays and rappel stations * Descent via rappel two short or one longer rappel * Additional variantes and routes on the same tower (up to 5 additional

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Penyal Bernat / Port de Soller

Quick info * A stunning rock tower in a fabulous location that can be climbed fairly easily in one long pitch. * Very crumbly rock and therefore risky * 1 pitch / 35 meters * 4b * No fixed gear except one expansion bolt right under the summit and a set of pitons on the top.

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Na Penyal Arista Brucs / Son Servera

Quick info * Short climb up a rock tower adjacent to the Penyal face above the town of Cala Millor on the east coast * One or two pitches / 40 meters * 5b / 4b * Trad protected / any fixed gear is old and worn (except a new anchor at the top) * Walk off via

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Cavall Bernat East Arete / Port de Pollenca

Quick info * An adventurous route in wild nature above the sea. * Wayfinding challenges on the approach and during the climbing. * 4 pitches / 185 meters * 3c / 4a / 3c / 3c * First three belays bolted, final belay needs to be built. All trad for intermediate protection. * Descent scramble and hike. General Forming the

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Cave: Cova des Genet / Porto Cristo

Quick info * Medium sized cave with many interesting rock formations * Entry by short rappel and exit by jugging * Easy approach hike that can be combined with visiting Cala Varques General Of the many bays of the Mallorcan east coasts Cala Varques (also spelled Cala Barques) might be one of the

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Scramble: Serra de Torrella traverse / Puig Major tunnel

Quick info * A long traverse with some technical sections high above the Soller valley * Needs rappel gear to stay on the ridge proper * Can be combined with an ascent of Penyal de Migdia General Looking up from the town of Soller and beyond the orange and olive groves the Serra

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Canyon: Torrent de s'Arboceret / Arta

Quick info * Remote canyon with several rappels, bushwhacking and some wayfinding challenges * Long outing with 16 kilometers to be covered. 6 km on pathless and technical terrain. * Unique setting outside of the Tramuntana in the North-East of the island General While most readers of this guide will rightfully think of

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Canyon: Torrent de Pareis

Quick info * An absolute classic hike with scramble bits * A truly impressive canyon with up to three hunderd meter high walls and bizarre rock formations * Fairly well known but still possible to enjoy in relative solitude General The Tramuntana mountains are home to many wild canyons formed by the millions

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Via La Comon on El Paredon / Puig Major

Quick info * One of the longest and most impressive lines in the island * Steep and technical climbing through the center of the Paredon wall on Puig Major * Long mildly technical scrambling descent or rappel * Fully bolted, but may need additional protection * 7 pitches / 280 meters * 6a / 5c / 5c / 5c / 6a+

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Cave: Cova Tancada / Port de Alcudia

Quick info * A large cave that can be reached via a hike and easy scramble * No technical gear needed * Fairly popular but definitely not overrun * The approach would be tricky in the rain General Among the caves of Mallorca the Cova Tancada holds a special place because of its sheer

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Scramble: Cavall Bernat traverse / Port de Pollenca

Quick info * A three kilometer long sharp ridge that falls off 300 meters into the sea * Sustained scrambling over several hours call for endurance and concentration * No technical gear needed General The Boquer valley, which is home to the Agulla de Boquer climb described in this guide, is formed by

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Scramble: Puig Major North East Ridge / Coll de Reis

Quick info * Long mix of hiking and scrambling to reach the actual summit of Puig Major right outside of the military base. * Out and back route. The military zone blocks the way for a circular route. * The main challenges are route finding and the length of the tour. * No technical

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Cave: Cova Mitjana / Canyamel

Quick info * Medium sized stunning cave with a technical entry and exit * Needs gear to rappel into the cave and jug back out * The entry is very close to the sea and can be inaccessible with high waves. * Naturally a good option on a rainy day General Mallorca has many

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Albahida / Sa Gubia

Quick info * THE classic multi-pitch line on the island that is very much worth doing. * A fairly long route on an impressive pillar that continues into a ridge scramble to the peak of Puig de Sa Gubia for a full day out. * Normally 7 Pitches (less or more are possible

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Espolon Aries / Penyal des Migdia

Quick Info * A wild line on the second highest mountain of Mallorca * Combines a 70 meter high chimney system with different possible starts below and exits above * Poor rock quality, difficult wayfinding and few good gear placements make this a dangerous and committing route * Variant described here: 9 pitches / 260

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Sa Bretxa tower / Sa Calobra

Quick info * A short adventurous climb on a very prominent and striking rock spire right by the famous Sa Calobra road * 2 pitches / 55 meters * 4b / 4c * Trad / only some old fixed gear * Rappel descent General The road down to Sa Calobra is an engineering marvel with its many, many

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Agulla de Frare (Via Normal) / Puig Major

Quick info * Possibly the most iconic alpine climb in the Tramuntana * Route on a free standing spire right next to the highest mountains of the island on solid rock. * Fixed ropes to reach base of the climb * 5 pitches / 170 meters * 4b / 4b / 4c / 5b (4c/A0) / 4c * Trad protection

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Agulla de Boquer (La Directa) / Port de Pollenca

Quick info * Short approach and route with great views on very solid rock. * 3 pitches / 70 meters * 5c / 4c / 4c * Sport bolted / Possible missing bolts on pitch 1 * Descent via rappel only General The Boquer valley is formed by the impressive Cavall de Bernat ridge and the Serra d´Albercutx

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Mallorca Adventure Guide: Climbing, Protection and Gear

Most of the tours in this guide can be described as medium difficulty in regards to the pure climbing skills - meaning up to grade 6a. However the level of protection of the climb, quality of rock, exposure, wayfinding and ease of retreat might bump up the „felt“ difficulty significantly.

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Mallorca Adventure Guide: Rock Types and Quality

Even though all of the climbable rock on the island is limestone, what you will actually encounter is very varied! A few general observation about the Mallorca rock: 1. Grey rock is mostly vertical or positively angled and is hit by water during rain falls. It tends to be very

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Mallorca Adventure Guide: Logistics

Most of the tours described in this book are clustered in and around the Tramuntana mountains stretching from the most westerly point of the island to the Formentor peninsula. Still you do not need to stay in or even close to the Tramuntana region. The island is small enough that

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Mallorca Adventure Guide: Weather

The very predictable good weather is one of the main reasons people choose to visit Mallorca in the first place. Climbing is possible almost all year round - except in the very hot summer months. Even if the weather is good for climbing, three factors need to be taken into