Quick info

  • A short adventurous climb on a very prominent and striking rock spire right by the famous Sa Calobra road
  • 2 pitches / 55 meters
  • 4b / 4c
  • Trad / only some old fixed gear
  • Rappel descent

General

The road down to Sa Calobra is an engineering marvel with its many, many curves and steep drops next to the road. Leading from the Coll de Reis at 700 meters right down to right the seaside one needs to wonder about the amount of work that has been put into connecting the two small villages at the deadend. Today this level of access has transformed the two small settlements into a collection of restaurants and shops which are visited by many tourists either by car, bike or boat every year.

Among road cyclists this piece of road is among the most coveted goals in Europe and during the cycling season (spring and autumn) it is easy to see why some drivers refer to the Lycra clad armada as „the colorful pest“.

Our objective is the Sa Bretxa spire impressively leaning over the tarmac close to the end of the road. Its road facing west side is blank and overhanging and does not look very inviting or climbable at all. However the east face is less steep and does host a number of trad routes up to grade 6b+ - we will however focus on the „normal“ right on the south-east edge of Sa Bretxa.

An article on my first time visiting this tower can be found here.

The view towards the tower from the approch walk The route is making its way through the grey right side.

Logistics

Driving out here will take quite a while either up and over the Puig Major pass from Soller or from the north via the Lluc monastery and might be too much hassle for „just“ the climb. However a visit to Sa Calobra with its stunning beach and the end of the Torrent de Pareis can make it definitely worthwhile.

There are a few possible parking spots right next to the road at the intersection between the main road to Sa Calobra and Cala Tuent (almost at the very bottom of the road).

The restaurants in Sa Calobra are touristy but an option for having lunch after the climb. Alternatively the bar in the unique „corbata“ 270 degree curve at the top of the road makes for a good stop too.

Approach and descent

The famous Sa Calobra road and the small settlement at the bottom.

From the parking spot walk on the road for less than five minutes until closer to the spire the right side of the banking does change from a wall to a vegetated steep slope. Make your way up the slope and towards the base of the tower. Right before a small dry stone wall / fence you will reach the outermost South-East edge of Sa Bretxa. The route starts here.

To get back, rappel in two hops using the belay from earlier. Then reverse the approach back to the car.

Technical information

  • The climb is just two pitches long and the easiest line up. Both pitches are of similar difficulty.
  • The pitches are not bolted and the belays consist of old gear (pitons). There are many possibilities for natural protection with slings and cams.
  • Gear: 60 meter single rope, 6-8 quick draws, slings, a few small and medium cams.
  • Even though the climb is south-east facing the surrounding higher rock formations do provide a bit of shade.
  • Beware of loose rock!
The tower leans over the road. Make absolutly sure not to drop any rocks!

Climbing and pitches

The climbing follows one of the corners of the spire in a combination of slabs and a short steeper section.

Pitch

Grade

Length

Description 

1 

4b

30

Start up the easy first meter right by the corner and continue through fairly loose rock and vegetation onto a shelf. On the shelf move right to find a few pitons (most likely connected by old rope or slings). 

Set up your belay here. Continuing would lead to a lot of rope drag!

2

4c

25

Move out right and straight up the slab towards a chimney visible above. Either move up the chimney or the crack a bit to the left (the crack variant might be a touch harder) onto a slab that leads to the top. 

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