Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Via Socuellamos on El Paredon / Puig Major

Bengt

Jan 27, 2024 • 4 min read

Quick info

The classic line on the crown jewel of a wall that is El Paredon (Puig Major).
A mix of harder, steeper pitches in the beginning with a traverse to an easy finish as the second part of the route.
Long mildly technical scrambling descend or steeper scramble and walk off descend.
Most belays bolted, Pitch 1 and 2 bolted, only a few pitons after that.
7 pitches / 250 meters. + 100 meters of ridge scrambling.
6a / 5b / 5a / 5b / 5c / 4a / 4c
Easier alternatives for pitches 1 and 2 possible.

General

See the article on the Via La Comon for a general description of the area.

The classic Socuellamos route does not shy away from the steeper middle section of the wall but snakes its way up without getting too difficult at any point.

Logistics

Same as for Agulla de Frare which is right next to the Paredon wall.

Approach and descent

Same as for Via La Comon.

Left: getting back down; Right: On the approach.

Technical information

Seven pitches (up to 55 meters) with 250 meters of climbing + 100 meters of exposed ridge scrambling to the summit.
All belays except the last two are bolted. Pitches 1 and 2 are bolted with long distances in between bolts. All other pitches are trad.
Gear: Double ropes (min 60 meters) or single rope. A set of small and medium cams to the protection (Camelot 0.5 to 3 with doubles of number 1 and 2).
Bailing off the route will be difficult after pitch 5 and climbing out the top is the better option.
The rock quality is mostly very good (especially on the steeper pitches). Beware of loose rocks on ledges and at belays.
With a south-east aspect the wall is sunny the whole day.

Left: Pitch 2; Right: Coming out of the crux section of pitch 5.

Climbing and pitches

The route starts with five pitches in the middle of the wall that are fairly steep before traversing to the left and up unto the summit ridge via easier ground. No real short pitches and sustained on the two cruxes (Pitch 1 and 5).

The ledge after pitch 5 and the beginning of the traverse of pitch 6.

Plan for five to six hours on the wall (depending on the speed of your party).

Pitch	Grade	Length	Description
1	6a	35	Rossa Rotja variation; follow the right hand line of bolts (very spaced and slightly rusted) straight up through steep ground to a bolted belay. Alternatively start 10 meters further to the right by an obvious crack; follow the crack towards a tree and then traverse over to the first belay; easier but significantly longer pitch.
2	5b	35	Rossa Rotja variation; continue to follow the bolts (very spaced and slightly rusted) straight up on slightly easier ground to then join the easier left hand variation shortly before the second bolted stance. Alternatively start to the left towards the visible belay (5 meters) and then up on easier ground to rejoin the Rossa Rotja variation.
3	5a	40	Move slightly to the right on the ledge then start into a groove with a slight overhang (beware of loose rocks), then directly up on easier ground to a bolted belay, only two pitons as intermediate protection, beware of rope drag on this pitch.
4	5b	30	Straight up from the belay towards single bolts in the steep section, then move to the right to a set of old pitons and then up on slabby ground with another piton; aim for the steeper wall above with a bolted belay.
5	5c	35	Left from the stance into a open corner with a single piton; follow the corner to the end; then straight up through a sustained 15m section with several vertical cracks (make sure to have a few medium sized cams ready!), after that easier towards a final steep bit and a bolted belay unter a steep wall, note that the bolt line above is part of the Via La Comon that crosses here.
6	4a	25	Traverse left under a steeper wall easily around a corner, the terrain overhead will open up; build a belay after 25-30 meters at a convenient spot.
7	4c	55	Make your way up and left towards the ridge leading to the summit through canals and ledges, single piton on the last third of the pitch; fixed sling as belay on the ridge.

Left: The summit ridge; Right: Perfect views from the summit.

Continue up the ridge towards the summit for about 100 meters. Scrambly and exposed terrain.

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