This article is part of a series in which I am reviewing the local climbing spots on Mallorca from my beginner / intermediate climber point of view.
The crag is split into two main areas with a few random routes in between.
Most of the hardest routes can be found in a cave that features an about 20 meter, almost vertical roof. Most of the routes have perma-draws that look very very old and dodgy!
A bit of scrambling towards the north leads to the other sector that hosts eight routes of 7a to 8a climbing. This area is home to a big colony of seagulls that scream at you and take close flybys - Respect their privacy! The bolts here are not great anyways.
Between the two areas we found two more routes that have newer bolts. I would rate the one closer to the cave at about 6a(+) and the other 6c (if climbed as intended and easier if taken to the right).
There are a few boulders here with cleared landings - but I did not find any documentation (they do look hard...).
The rock here is the typical east coast stuff with many cracks and features like tufas.
Park at the Cala Romantica beach and walk towards the south following a well trodden path. After about 20-30 minutes you reach a “crossing” from which the cave sector can be seen clearly. The way down is easy from this point.
The good, the bad and the ugly
If you are looking for very hard and extremely steep climbing this might be an area for you. However there is nothing available for beginners and only one or two routes for intermediates.
The protection is another downside. Most bolts can not be trusted.
However the hiking approach and the setting might make a visit worthwhile.