Estricnina (5c), Danzomania (6a+) and Rockmasters (6b)

The Sa Gubia crag is the location for bolted multi pitch climbing on Mallorca for good reason as the Cirque and the main pillar feature almost a dozen high quality lines. On the opposing side of the valley the Paret dels Coloms is best known for its very good and tough single pitch climbs. However on the right hand side of the face several three to four pitch lines wait to be discovered.

Green: Estricnina; Blue: Danzomania; Red: Rock Masters

Three lines start almost at the same point in a small hollow and need to be rappelled after topping out.

The leftmost route Estricnina snakes its way up the fairly blank wall at a very honest 5c grade. Each of the three pitches has a unique character: Pitch 1 goes straight up the wall towards a set of tufas at a solid 5c (and is slightly polished), pitch 2 traverses to the left delicately into a small cave still at 5c, while pitch 3 climbs out of the cave with fun exposure on big holds (5b). This route would be a good way to check if your rope team is ready for the bigger objectives on the other side of the valley like Ley de Deseo or Supernova, Spits and Giggles.

Danzomania takes a straight shot up the wall right to the left of the big cave system at the edge of the Paret dels Coloms. Consistent and demanding climbing on small holds and feet broken up by the occasional bulge that needs to be climbed over leads to a very good 6a+ route that as well might be 6b.

The right line Rock Masters of our trio is definitely the hardest and the best. Pitch 1 breaks out right after an easy start and into the bottom of the broken and steep rock at the right hand end of the face - solid 6b climbing. The next pitch is the highlight of the route: Steep climbing on big holds (including a place where cutting loose and heel hooking is very much on the table) leads through the caves to the next belay - again 6b but very different in character. After that pitch 3 (5b) moves out of the caves right under the blank headwall. The last pitch moves around the headwall to the left at 5c and climbs all the way to the top of the cliff.

The big lines in the Cirque are always in plain view.

A quick party might attempt this trio of routes in a day but I would recommend taking at least two and filling them up with a bit of single pitch climbing.

PS: There is at least one more hard line (7a) and a hard variation of Rock Masters that I will add here once I have mastered that grade ;-).

Adventurers: Julia, Toby, Bengt