This article is part of a series in which I am reviewing the local climbing spots on Mallorca (and the other balearics) from my beginner / intermediate climber point of view.

Note that this article talks about a sector on the neighbouring island of Ibiza!

The climbs
The whole area has several different sectors of medium to hard difficulty sport climbing. However the 100 meter cliff of Nostalgia that drops right down to the ocean is the center piece.

The cliff features about ten up to 100 meter multi pitches and several single pitch routes as well. Grades on the routes go from 5b up to 7a+ and with good but sometimes spaced bolts and solid stances most of the time. We climbed two of the longer routes and both were great!

The rock is similar to what can be found in the Tramuntana on Mallorca: Deeply weathered and very grippy.

From San Miquel follow the good road to the small town of Isla Blanca and find the parking at the end of the paved road. The three large Xs on the road tell you not to drive further and I would agree as the dirt road continuing to the crag is impossible to drive on!

From the parking just follow the dirt road until you reach a small ruined house and the sector Nostalgia.

To get to Ibiza you can take the rapid ferry from Palma to Ibiza town in just two hours.

The good, the bad and the ugly
What is unique here is the large selection of very good sport multi pitch routes accessible for medium grade climbers. Combine that with the really beautiful setting and the exposure over the sea and you got a real winner.

I would say you can easily spend a week or more in this area alone switching between the different sectors.

The cliffs are mainly north facing making this a good option even on hotter days. The hike back up to the parking lot is a real slog in the hot sun though!

More Information
Route Information on theCrag (The sector Nostalgia is not described here, but the others are)
The local guidebook can be bought here (well done and useful!)