A loop around the Sa Gubia Cirque

The walls of Sa Gubia are THE playground for anyone who is looking for sport bolted multipitch lines on the island of Mallorca. Medium to hard climbing on solid rock in a beautiful Cirque that feels wild and exposed makes you want to come back here again and again.

A loop around the Sa Gubia Cirque

Ticking the three walls of this stunning sea of rock
While the most climbed route of Sa Gubia is definitely Albahida on the main prominent spur that forms the left hand side of the Cirque some of the best lines can be found on the three walls that form this colosseum of rock.
The left hand and backwalls feature vertical and slightly overhanging lines up to 200 meters long while the right hand side is slightly lower with about 100 meters and broken up into two huge overhangs.

In the back of the cirque the a classic route called Princesa moves straight up a fairly blank section before following features along overhangs to reach the very top of the wall. The hardest climbing is during the first part of the wall with a bit that is graded French 6c. The route intersects with Sol Solet and by taking in the final two pitches of that route the whole excursion ends with another 6b+.

The lower overhang of the right hand wall is a steep mess of tufas and wild rock features that hosts two many hard single pitch lines. The „easiest“ line to the top of this wall is Sexo Debil 6c which is only brought „down“ to this grade by having a few artificial holds on the crux section. Five pitches wind their way up through powerful and thin climbing without ever really letting up. A nice bonus is that you can abseil the whole route in two 35 meter free hanging rappels.

To the right of the famous Albahida spur the left hand side of the cirque hosts several very good routes. Maybe the second most popular route in the area is La Ley de Deseo with great climbing at a more amiable grade of 5c/6a.

But more in line to the other routes mentioned here are Mongol Express and Via de los Bomberos. Two sustained 6b+ routes that make their way up almost to the top of the wall in four long pitches each.

Blue: La Ley de Deseo; Green: Mongol Express; Orange: Bomberos; Red: Princesa/Sol Solet; Yellow: Sexo Debil

Having climbed a good number of routes in the Cirque already I am still eager to get back there to try something new or even repeat some of the great lines I was lucky to get onto once or twice before!

Adventurers: Julia, Wolf, Toby and Bengt