Quick info

  • Very interesting line that finds an unlikely way through a steep and hard wall.
  • 5 pitches / 160 meters or 4 pitches / 110 meters if pitch 1 is skipped
  • 4b / 4b / 4c / 5a / 5c
  • Fully trad / alpine. Only occasional fixed gear at belays.
  • Walk off via Castell de Alaro and main hiking trail.

General

The Puig de Alaro (817 meters above sea level) is one of the two table mountains sitting at the edge of the Tramuntana and looking over the flatter central part of the island. The Puig has 200 meter high sheer cliffs to all sides and looks like a natural fortress from afar.

Humans have been using this natural defense since the Bronze Age and it has played a major role in the moorish rule of Mallorca and there are quite a few remains, including the gate tower, of the former castle still standing.

Today the hike up the well kept dry stone way up to the castle is popular among locals and tourists alike who come here for the fantastic views into the Tramuntana mountains, the whole center of the island and the city of Palma.

The same wall that is home to the route described here also has some very high quality sport climbing routes with fantastic tufa features of mostly high difficulty.

You can find a tour report on this climb here.

Wild steep rock and the crux corner.

Logistics

Drive to the town of Alaro and look for the signs to the Castell d'Alaro and the restaurant Es Verger. The road will become very small and broken but continue on. Two thirds of the way to the restaurant there are a few parking spots at the right side of the road. The best parking spot is right before a fork in the road that allows you to turn around to drive back down later.

The restaurant Es Verger is frequented by locals and does have a fantastic panoramic view. You might also decide to park there and grab a bite after the climb.

Up on the table top mountain a nice refuge (which you will pass on the descent from the climb) is open almost all year round and serves snacks and great coffee.

Approach and descent

From the parking on the roadside walk up the road a few bends and find the hiking trail leading up to the castle (clearly signed). After 10-15 min of steep walking you reach a left turn. Step of the trail to the right and find the small dry stone wall leading to a ridge - the climb starts here.

For the descent make your way through the trees and rocks until you find a path marked by cairns. Follow the path left and uphill until you reach the building (including the bar/cafe) in about 10 min. For the final way back to the car follow the main hiking trail out of the castle.

Technical information

  • The climb is separated into five pitches totaling 160 meters of climbing. However the first pitch can be skipped by scrambling up a vegetated canal left of the base of the climb. Skipping the pitch might be advisable as the rock quality on it is very poor and the climbing uninspired.
  • None of the pitches are bolted. Belays are either a single bolt or some older ropes threaded through rock features. There are a few pitons and bolts in key places on the route. Good natural protection is possible almost everywhere.
  • The route is next to bolted lines which are much harder. Beware not to be drawn into these.
  • Gear: 60 meter single rope (retreating to the base of pitch 2 is possible with one rope), 8 quick draws, slings, set of cams and nuts especially for pitch 5.
  • East facing wall. Belays are very sheltered and in the shade.

Climbing and pitches

The line as seen from the approach hike.

The route finds a unique line of moderate difficulty up a steep wall by weaving in and out of several hollows and caves. The climbing is mostly on orange and very featured rock.

Depending on your level of confidence and skill in alpine climbing the route will take anything between 1,5 to 3 hours.

Pitch

Grade

Length

Description 

1 

4b

50

The first long pitch moves up a ridge leading to the base of the actual wall. Follow the right side of the ridge with close to the steep drop. Vegetation and rock features allow for natural protection. 

To reach the end of the pitch make your way through a set of bushes and set up a belay on one of the bomber trees under the large first large cave that is part of the main wall. 

The rock on this pitch is of poor quality. Be careful as the hiking trail runs below the base of the pitch!

This belay can also be reached by scrambling up a vegetated canal to the left of the start of pitch 1. 

2

4b

25

Start the pitch by moving up into the first cave. From here move left via very large holds onto a balcony over the cave. Now follow that balcony right via easy ground - the space will get tighter until you have to step out around a protrusion after which you will reach a belay with some old fixed gear. 

3

4c

25

Either move up directly (using a few expansion bolts) or (better) move a few meters right (Make sure NOT to follow the obvious ramp further right!) and then straight up onto the next balcony. Clip an expansion bolt and continue left. Leave the balcony and climb around another protrusion to reach the next belay in a small hollow. Again some old fixed gear.

4

5a

30

Leave the belay to the left and step out onto the grey rock slab. Make sure to put in a piece of protection right before starting the slab as there is no good place for protection for a few meters. 

Climb up the slab (huge exposure below) with a few delicate moves until you reach a solid no hands rest with a bomber Camelot size 1 placement. 

Continue up and right and keep an eye out for a new piton. Clip the piton and then straight up into the large cave. Easy ground until the back of the cave with a belay on two old rope threads. 

5

5c

25

Move right and up under the clearly visibly steep corner. Make a few harder moves until a good resting position and then another set of harder moves continuing up the corner. The whole section (10 meters) can be protected well with small cams. 

After the harder section the ground eases. Move up straight (using good holds and feet on the wall right of the corner). Clip another expansion bolt and make your way up the last 3 meter corner to the top. 

Belay of a good tree right at the edge of the cliff.

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