This article is part of a series in which I am reviewing the local climbing spots on Mallorca from my beginner / intermediate climber point of view.

The climbs
There is a wide selection (60+) of roughly 20 meter routes that start from different ledges directly above the sea. The easiest ones (4c/5a) are encountered first at the leftmost side of the crag. These are mostly vertical slabby affairs. Some routes share anchors which allows for top roping several routes without rearranging the gear.

After that there is a stunning looking overhanging arete followed by a corner with some nice medium difficulty climbs - especially the 5c (Es diedre) right in the corner is super fun.

Further to the right the climbs get harder (6b and upwards) with almost all of them starting with some hard roof climbing. Note that the harder stuff makes up two thirds of what's on offer here!

This area has the most convenient approach of all the east Mallorca seaside crags. From the deadend road that leads to the old tower on top of the cliff you walk a few minutes towards Cala Santanyi and then down to the ledge from where the climbs start at the first obvious point.

The good, the bad and the ugly
Similarly great as the other coastal crags (Magraner, Cala Bota, Torre d´Beu) this one has the advantage of the short and easy approach.

With the south east facing wall the sun does hit the area hard during the day and in the hotten months you might want to either avoid it or come here for a late in the day session.

Being easy to reach and well known especially the easier routes can be busy.

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