This article is part of a series in which I am reviewing the local climbing spots on Mallorca from my beginner / intermediate climber point of view.
The main feature is a blank wall with small pockets right by the busy hiking trail which features a few hard (6b and up) slab climbs with tightly spaced and sometimes rusty bolts. Higher up the climbs mellow out but getting off the ground at all is a struggle. Many of the holds are somewhat polished...
To the left and right there are more climbs that sport cracks and other features. Again the bolts are rusty in places and I did encounter some loose hangers (I did my best to tighten them again).
The walk to the main wall is a highly frequented trail leading to a picturesque Cala in 30 min. The wall itself is reached after about 20 min, but continue on the Cala after your session if you have time. While walking there are great views over the bay towards the Alcudia peninsula and Formentor.
The good, the bad and the ugly
With the nice approach and the quite unique tiny hold slab climbing coming here makes sense if you are technically proficient to climb in the high 6th grade.
However the protection is not super and you might want to skip some of the routes that look too dicy.
The wall will get very hot and even more slippery in the sun in summer - it's like climbing on a frying pan.
Route Information on theCrag
Route Information on UKClimbing
The area is also described in RockFax Mallorca