This article is part of a series in which I am reviewing the local climbing spots on Mallorca from my beginner / intermediate climber point of view.
There is a good selection of routes (45) in every grade here (except the very hardest stuff). Especially the middle grades are well represented with more than 30 routes ranging from 5b to 6a+.
The climbing style here varies from tiny pocket wall climbs, to layback cracks and weird cave / chimneys.
The rock in this area is different to what you find at the waterside crags or the mountains: A mixture of well featured grey stuff, orange blobs and very white almost chalky areas.
All climbs are on one long wall with plenty of room at the bottom to comfortably belay from. The bolts are new and well spaced most of the time.
Thanks again to the Camper Hof crew for setting up this area!
Having parked at the edge of Felanitx (right be the Sobrasada sausage factory - no joke) you have to walk through an abandoned factory and the overgrown terraces behind it to get to the wall which towers over the town. A pretty unique approach and that is also short.
The good, the bad and the ugly
This crag is part of our normal east coast rotation and provides a great alternative and variety to the coastal crags like Santanyi or Magraner. As an intermediate climber you will find a lot of good routes to work on here for several days and even beginners will find it very much worthwhile to visit.
The wall is technically east facing but does not get much sun especially in the winter. It can get pretty cold standing among the trees.