This article is part of a series in which I am reviewing the local climbing spots on Mallorca from my beginner / intermediate climber point of view.

The climbs
The more than 65 documented routes, ranging from easy 3c and low 4s up to 7s and even 8s, are all found at different parts of the wall on the left side of the beach (looking out to sea). The two sectors closest to the ocean are the busiest and frankly also the nicest.

The length of the climbs range from 20 to 25 meters and the routes are bolted with solid material. However the bolts in the cave sectors (furthest from the beach) look rusted and untrustworthy (This is also where the hardest routes are found).

In terms of climbing styles there is a lot of variety from tiny-hold slabs to monster jugs and the odd crack.

As this area is visited by many climbers and has been established for quite some time the hold especially on the easier routes are polished (especially true for “Jardiners sense fronteres” and “Herbofilia”).

The beach / crag can be reached either from the main road on a good walking trail in about 20-30 minutes or from the Cala Bota side in 30-40 minutes. Parking on the main road is very limited - make sure not to annoy the locals by parking in their driveways etc..

The good, the bad and the ugly
First and foremost the beach side wall is a great location for a whole day out. There are good reasons why Cala Magraner is always the example given by people for east coast sport climbing.

The climbing itself is great and on par with the other east coast crags like Cala Bota or Tijuana.

The downsides are that the area can be very busy (and the beach is as well with non-climbers) and some of the climbs are harder than the grade given due to the polished holds.

The walls are mainly south facing and will get baking hot in the summer.

More Information
Route Information on theCrag
Route Information on UKClimbing
Route Information on
The area is also described in RockFax Mallorca