The style of climbing found in this area is similar to Tijuana (Cala Santanyi) with 15-20 routes on the typical featured east coast rock. Many routes start off with hard almost horizontal overhangs where the rock has been weathered away but there are enough options that either avoid or go around these very hard bits.
In total there are about 40 climbs available covering all difficulties. There are even 8a climbs here...
The easiest routes are to the left most part of the crag. However this area is a bit difficult to reach as the bottom of the wall is littered with giant boulders (many of them climbable and used by boulders).
Most belay stances are pretty good and except for the ones on the very hardest routes the bolts look good too.
Park by the road and walk a few minutes towards the lighthouse. From there to the left and down to the base of the cliff. The routes start to the right from here looking out to sea.
The good, the bad and the ugly
Again very little to complain here: Typical high quality coastal climbing with a short approach and enough variation for several visits.
I noticed that the area gets quite busy however and as many of the best routes are close to each other you might feel crowded...
The wall faces south and you will be grilled like a “sardina a la plancha” during the warmer months!