This article is part of a series in which I am reviewing the local climbing spots on Mallorca from my beginner / intermediate climber point of view.
The climbs
There are only about ten routes on the main wall here of which some are not fully bolted (and maybe never will be). The “easiest” line here is a very hard 6a (which is not that great) and the rest ist 7b and up. I smashed myself on one of the 7bs and even though they are very hard the climbing is pretty cool.
In addition to the documented area there are a few bolts on a white chalky wall further to the left. I have not found any documentation on those but the wall looks pretty blank and hard.
On the very far side of this small mountain there are a few trad routes through the impressive headwall and up the adjacent tower. Documentation can be found here on Foracorda and in my article here.
Approach
Park in the commercial area of Son Servera and hike up to the cliff in 10-15 minutes. Easy to find and quick!
The good, the bad and the ugly
Due to the small selection of routes and the generally high difficulty beginner and intermediate climbers will not have a good time here. However the harder routes are worth a bit of projecting or a smash and grab visit if you are climbing on that level.
The wall is west facing and overhanging so that there is a lot of shade. Good in the summer, less so in winter (I have been freezing in a down jacket in December here before).
More Information
Route Information on theCrag
Route Information on UKClimbing
The area is also described in RockFax Mallorca