This article is part of a series in which I am reviewing the local climbing spots on Mallorca from my beginner / intermediate climber point of view.

The climbs
The area is divided into four sectors with the Dragonera being the main feature. This sector (named for the small neighboring island that is visible from here) is again divided into two distinct areas: A very pretty and high (~25-30 meter) overhanging wall with athletic and very photogenic single pitch routes and a vertical about 50 meter high area that has some two pitch routes that go all the way to the top of Mont Port (there is a bolt beyond the second anchor of the route Mig Dia that allow to safely exit to the top).

The bolts in the sector Dragonera are very new and well placed. However the belay stances could be better as there is little space at the bottom of the cliff (especially at the right / vertical part).

Just beyond Dragonera there is a cave with hard overhanging routes reached via some metal rungs bolted into the rock.

I have not checked out the other two sectors (Sombra and Catedral) yet.

Drive to the very end of the Carrer Cala d´Egos in Port de Andratx and park either on the tarmac or after a bit of gravel at the very top (Location in Google Maps). From here follow the trail towards the peak of Mont Port and after 2-3 minutes the one to the right marked by cairns.

Maybe 20-25 minutes of hiking (with the occasional scrambling with fixed ropes) later you will reach the first cliff and then around the next corner the sector Dragonera.

This is one of the tricky approaches on the island but nothing too bad.

An alternative would be to hike to the top of Mont Port and then rappel down via the route Mig Dia (or climb out and hike off after your session).

The good, the bad and the ugly
Great sport routes and short multi pitches in the same sector plus super hard stuff for those who look for it in great scenery - not a bad pitch for a climbing area...

On the negative side the approach sticks out - but this can be mitigated by rappelling into or climbing out of the sector Dragonera.

In terms of weather exposure: The sun will hit most of the climbs in the afternoon and the wind from the sea could be an issue (Check if there is strong wind from the south and avoid the area if so).

More Information
Route information on UKClimbing
Route information on theCrag
Topos and details on (in German)