This article is part of a series in which I am reviewing the local climbing spots on Mallorca from my beginner / intermediate climber point of view.
The climbs
The crag consists of two walls in a roughly 90 degree angle. One forming part of a bay (South aspect) and the other right at the seaside (East aspect). Both are about 15 meters high.
About 40 climbs range from very easy grade 3 to a hard high grade 6 and 7 climbs. There are a few climbs close to each other with easier routes next to harder ones. Good for setting up top ropes.
The rock is typical for the Mallorquin east coast: Very structured limestone with cracks, pockets and all sorts of holds. A unique feature on the seaside wall is the horizontal band of crystals about one third up the wall.
Belaying is very comfortable with a wide ledge below the wall.
This area has been developed quite recently and the protection is superb: Shiny new glue in bolts with reasonable distance from each other. Thanks to the Camperhof crew for setting up and maintaining this area and the Felanitx crag!
Approach
From the parking spot on the road follow a good track about 30 to 40 minutes to almost the edge of the cliff and then head hard ridge towards a scrambly decent down to the ledge below the climbs.
The good, the bad and the ugly
With a bit of a longer approach and the wide selection of styles and difficulties one can easily spend a whole day here, or more (this is somewhat of our home crag).
The seaside setting and the beach very close by make this place a perfect example of Mallorca East coast climbing. And it is far less crowded than the neighboring Cala Magraner
With the south / east cliffs it will get hot here quickly and the walls keep hot even after the sun is gone. In winter there will be spray from the sea if there are easterly winds and high waves.
A very special treat here is the cave hidden at the end of the crag. Just follow the wall until the ledge drops off in sort of a stairway (exposed and dangerous with high wind and waves!). At the end there is the entrance to a rather large cave with stalactites and a small underground beach. You will need a good light to really appreciate the place though.
More Information
Route Information on theCrag