This article is part of a series in which I am reviewing the local climbing spots on Mallorca (and the other balearics) from my beginner / intermediate climber point of view.
Note that this article talks about a sector on the neighbouring island of Ibiza!
Buda consists of many different sectors of which most are on the south side of the peninsula and one (Es Vedra) is on the north. In total there are about 150 sport single and multi pitch routes here ranging from easy 3 and 4 up to 8b.
The south facing walls are slabby in places but feature huge overhangs especially higher up the sometimes 100 meter+ face.
On the north side Es Vedra is similar with a about 60-70 meter wall that starts as a slab and gets steeper in the last third. This sector has 13 documented mostly long routes (a 60 meter rope is barely enough to get back down some of the single pitches even with rope stretch!). From this sector the beautiful small island of Es Vedra itself is well visible all the time (and you might be in about 500 photos by people visiting the viewpoint above).
The rock and protection is pretty good, however there are a few rusty bolts here and there.
Simply park at the spot for the Es Vedra viewpoint, walk out the viewpoint then follow the trail left hand down to the wall that is clearly visible already.
The only issue is that the parking lot is very busy and even in the (very off) offseason we were lucky to get a spot here.
To get to Ibiza you can take the rapid ferry from Palma to Ibiza town in just two hours.
The good, the bad and the ugly
First of all the setting here is top notch, especially on the northern side. The climbing is very good and varied also. Only the parking situation might make things a bit frustrating but that's what you get for climbing in a spot that is among the top 10 for tourists on the island!
Another thing to note is that the southern facing sectors will be like an oven as soon as the sun has some time to hit them. So go here early and maybe switch over to the Es Vedra sector later in the day.