Climbing

Multipitch: El Paredon - Dijous Bo / Puig Major

Bengt

Nov 29, 2024 • 4 min read

Quick info

A good line on mostly solid rock on the far right side of the wall. The ambience, type of climbing and small amount of fixed gear give this route a very alpine feel.
Five harder pitches in a row with a distinct crux pitch at 6b+. Less sustained than La Comon but harder than Socuellamos.
Long mildly technical scrambling descend or steeper scramble and walk off descend.
Partly equipped route. Bolted belays and a few bolts at the hardest sections. Less than 20 bolts on the whole route. Protection with cams and slings is solid in most places.
7 pitches / 250 meters.
4c / 5c / 6a / 6b+ / 5c-6a / 5c / 4a

General
See the article on the Via La Comon for a general description of the area.

Starting to the right of the obvious chimney this route makes its way up the right side of the wall by taking in a few interesting corner and crack features interspersed with more slabby and technical pitches. The few bolts on the line, named Dijous Bo (after the big autumn festival happening in the city of Inca), were put in 2005.

Logistics
Same as for Agulla de Frare which is right next to the Paredon wall.

Left: starting pitch 2; Right: At the base of the route.

Approach and descent
Same as for Via La Comon.

Toby eyeing the crux and moving through it.

Technical information

Seven pitches (up to 50 meters) with 250 meters of climbing.
Bolted belays except at the summit give a clear separation of the route into seven pitches.
Gear: Double ropes (min 60 meters) or single rope. A set of small and medium cams to the protection (Camelot 0.25 to 3 with possible doubles of number 0.75, 1 and 2).
Rappelling the route without doubles of at least 60 meters is impossible. However the route can be bailed off from the top of pitch 4 with a 70 meter single rope. Rappelling after pitch four would be risky even with double ropes due to the very long pitches and grabby rock.
The rock quality of pitch 2 to 6 is mostly very good. However pitches 1 and 7 are very loose.
For the final two pitches there is the possibility to move left into the final section of Directa des Pilar. However the last two pitches of Dijous are much better.
With a south-east aspect the wall is sunny the whole day.

Climbing and pitches

The route starts on the stepped wall to the right of the vegated chimney / couloir on the right hand side of the face (see overview picture).
The first three pitches stay on the pillar to the right of the chimney / couloir before crossing it to the left and going straight up before joining the ridge about 30 meters to the right of the summit.
Good placements for cams all the way up.

Pitch	Grade	Length	Description
1	4c	35	Start about 5 meters to the right of the vegetated couloir and climb up the first wall, then over a ledge to a second wall. On top of the second wall a find the bolted belay (shared with a historic route called GAM). No fixed gear on this pitch and very crumbly rock - take care!
2	5c	40	Move slightly to the right and start climbing the right hand side of the pillar above following three bolts (slabby thin moves). After that trend left and up over featured and partly loose rock to a bolted belay on a ledge above.
3	6a	25	Straight up passed an obvious rock tunnel and then diagonally to the left (3 bolts) towards a dark corner in the couloir to the left. Steep short wall to the bolted belay.
4	6b+ or 6a+/A1	25	Step over the couloir into the crack system to the left and a first bolt on the pitch (exciting moves). From here straight up using the thinning crack and side pulls for about 20 meters (3 more bolts and a piton) to reach the slightly cramped belay on a small ledge. The pitch could be aided on fixed gear and cams to bring down the grade a bit.
5	5c/6a	50	Climb the corner right above to a yellow/grey wall. Trending slightly right via two bolts in the wall towards another corner. The second yellowish corner is steep and pumpy and has no fixed gear. Continue up over easier ground to a bolted belay unter a wall. At this point there is the option to traverse for a few meters to the left to the second to last belay of Directa des Pilar.
6	5c	50	Straight up the wall via four bolts towards two steep parallel cracks. Climb either the left or right crack and then over easier ground. Finally up a steepening wall with two bolts to a bolted belay right under the summit ridge. Take care with the water washed and very sharp rock!
7	4a	30	Follow the right left over loose rock and blocks to the summit. No fixed gear and no belay on top (can be build with slings and cams. Be extra careful as falling rocks from here can hit several other routes.

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