Multipitch: El Paredon - Dijous Bo / Puig Major
Quick info
- A good line on mostly solid rock on the far right side of the wall. The ambience, type of climbing and small amount of fixed gear give this route a very alpine feel.
- Five harder pitches in a row with a distinct crux pitch at 6b+. Less sustained than La Comon but harder than Socuellamos.
- Long mildly technical scrambling descend or steeper scramble and walk off descend.
- Partly equipped route. Bolted belays and a few bolts at the hardest sections. Less than 20 bolts on the whole route. Protection with cams and slings is solid in most places.
- 7 pitches / 250 meters.
- 4c / 5c / 6a / 6b+ / 5c-6a / 5c / 4a
General
See the article on the Via La Comon for a general description of the area.
Starting to the right of the obvious chimney this route makes its way up the right side of the wall by taking in a few interesting corner and crack features interspersed with more slabby and technical pitches. The few bolts on the line, named Dijous Bo (after the big autumn festival happening in the city of Inca), were put in 2005.
Logistics
Same as for Agulla de Frare which is right next to the Paredon wall.
Approach and descent
Same as for Via La Comon.
Technical information
- Seven pitches (up to 50 meters) with 250 meters of climbing.
- Bolted belays except at the summit give a clear separation of the route into seven pitches.
- Gear: Double ropes (min 60 meters) or single rope. A set of small and medium cams to the protection (Camelot 0.25 to 3 with possible doubles of number 0.75, 1 and 2).
- Rappelling the route without doubles of at least 60 meters is impossible. However the route can be bailed off from the top of pitch 4 with a 70 meter single rope. Rappelling after pitch four would be risky even with double ropes due to the very long pitches and grabby rock.
- The rock quality of pitch 2 to 6 is mostly very good. However pitches 1 and 7 are very loose.
- For the final two pitches there is the possibility to move left into the final section of Directa des Pilar. However the last two pitches of Dijous are much better.
- With a south-east aspect the wall is sunny the whole day.
Climbing and pitches
The route starts on the stepped wall to the right of the vegated chimney / couloir on the right hand side of the face (see overview picture).
The first three pitches stay on the pillar to the right of the chimney / couloir before crossing it to the left and going straight up before joining the ridge about 30 meters to the right of the summit.
Good placements for cams all the way up.
Grade |
Length |
|
1 |
4c |
35 |
2 |
5c |
40 |
3 |
6a |
25 |
4 |
6b+ or 6a+/A1 |
25 |
5 |
5c/6a |
50 |
6 |
5c |
50 |
7 |
4a |
30 |