Le Thaurac - Great old school southern France climbing
With more than 1.000 tightly packed limestone climbs along the river L´Hérault this area is good for a few days or a longer visit on its own. Add the beautiful landscape, climbing history significance and the French charme and you get the full package.
Crimps, Croissants and Chill vibes
Right on the edge of the Cevenne mountains about 40 km north of Montpellier the river L´Hérault has carved a deep canyon with high limestone cliffs on both sides. The most impressive formation on the eastern bank right north of the small town of Saint-Bauzille-de-Putois might be best known for its large cave system called Grotte des Demoiselles but among climbers the whole area is just called Le Thaurac.
Most of the climbing here are single pitches but there is the occasional three or four pitch multi pitch to be found. And while almost everything is bolted there are a few traditional lines as well.
The general style of climbing is vertical, technical and crimpy. However there rock is quite featured with corner systems and small overhangs in places and the style does vary from cliff to cliff quite a bit. Grades range from 4a to 9a - so there is truly something for everybody.
One important thing to note is that this area looks back at a very long history of climbing and both the grading and bolting reflects that: Most grades are quite a bit sand bagged and be ready for big runouts in between bolts!
Most sectors are easily reachable from the Grotte des Demoiselles parking lot (which also allows vans to stay for the night - so there is always a crew of climbers hanging around) and approaches range from a few minutes to about half an hour. It is worthwhile to buy the local guide that is available at the caves gift shop but there is pretty good information online as well. The town of Ganges a few kilometers to the north is a local hub with every kind of shop to restock.
Additionally from here other famous and stunning climbing areas are close by. Pic Saint Loup, known for its super hard sport climbs (several 9a and up routes and the hunting ground of Seb Bouin), and Hortus, a great mid to hard grade multi pitch area, are within a 30 min drive.
Besides that there is a quite interesting subterranean via ferrata and many caves to explore.