Multipitch: Cala Llamp Stargazer / Port d´Andratx
Quick info
- Unique climb above the sea and the luxury development of the Andratx area with a 1 min approach.
- 4 Pitches / 120 meters
- 5c / 6a+ / 6b / 6b+
- Fully bolted.
- Very crumbly rock on the lower pitches. A bit better on pitches 3 and 4.
- Rappel descent (fairly tricky).
General
The area around Port d´Andratx is home to some very good sport climbing areas like Puig de Garrafa, Mont Port and Cala Llamp. While the first two might be the better pure sport crags Cala Llamp features an impressive 150 meter high sea cliff that hosts the Stargazer multi pitch climb.
Stargazer makes its way up through very alpine feeling north facing rock for two pitches before following a big and steep corner for some glorious, exposed and hard climbing to the top. The first ascensionists were Isidre B and Rafa R in 2014.
Having the sea and the island of Dragonera as a backdrop makes this a very worthwhile climb.
Logistics
From Palma follow the MA-1 road towards Andratx and follow the signage to Port d´Andratx and then Cala Llamp. Drive through the settlement and to the very end of Carrer Congre. You can find parking spots along the last 200 meters of the road before it dead ends.
There is the option to stop for a bite or a coffee in the rather chic Port d´Andratx or climb a bit more on the sport walls of Cala Llamp after getting off Stargazer.
Approach and descent
From the parking at the very end of the road go back 20 meters and make your way into the abandoned quarry right by the road. Inside the quarry search for a steeper broken wall behind a few trees. Here you will find the first bolts going up and then trending climbers left.
To descent rap the route:
- From the top of pitch 4 to the belay of pitch 3 make sure to trends left. Be careful not to be stuck hanging in space as the last meters to the belay are very steep.
- From top of pitch 3: Again trend left and find the belay rings in a small cave a few meters above and right of the actual belay of pitch 2.
- The last two rappels are straightforward.
Technical information
- The total length of the climb is about 120 meters in four pitches.
- The nature of the climbing and the very crumbly rock give this route an alpine feel with some objective danger (mainly holds breaking and rockfall).
- All pitches are sport bolted. Bolts are quite spaced in places.
- Gear: 70 meter single rope or doubles, 16 quickdraws.
- North east facing. Almost no sun and exposed to the wind from the sea (the rock might be covered in moisture and sea salt).
Climbing and pitches
A climb in two parts: Pitches one and two make their way up steps and slabs towards the big and steep corner feature that comprises part two.
The climbing will take 2,5 - 4 hours with another hour to rappel.
Pitch |
Grade |
Length |
Description |
1 |
5c |
22 |
Start to the right of the broken rock and then traverse left over. By the iron spike straight up and carefully onto an easy slab (spaced bolts here) to the belay on an earthy patch. The rock on this pitch is very suspect and you will kick off rocks - make sure your belayer stands off to the side! 7 bolts on this pitch. |
2 |
6a+ |
28 |
Step out right onto a pillar and then with some cool movement through an overhanging bit. A few harder moves here are the crux of the pitch. Continue up before moving left and to the belay over some loose dirt and vegetation - sketchy. 10 bolts. |
3 |
6b |
38 |
Straight up the white slab (loose rock!), then trending right towards the steep brown wall with a right leaning crack feature. Follow that feature (pumpy) to a small cave with the belay. 15 bolts. |
4 |
6b+ |
33 |
Straight up the corner and the left onto the face (crux of the pitch). Then into a white corner (still sustained). 14 bolts. |
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